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Beartooth Pass to
Rafting
the Rapids
Rider/Reviewers: Wally and Peggy Manning
We feel very lucky to live in a place where there are so many possibilities for riding, and on a typical weekend we connect with a couple of friends and ride our Harleys on scenic roads in the local area. On this weekend, however, we were thrilled to learn that we would be doing the Beartooth Pass to Rafting the Rapids, a TypeRider loop tour that revealed to us an exciting and unique Montana.
We left home in Wyoming on a hot Friday afternoon for a leisurely ride to Billings, Montana. When we arrived at the Best Western Clock Tower Inn and told the front desk staff that we rolled in on motorcycles, we were presented with microfiber towels for the buggy windshields and cold bottles of water for the parched riders. They told us about a special area for washing motorcycles and let us know that plenty of covered parking was available. Definitely a motorcycle-friendly place! We’ve always enjoyed staying at Best Westerns and the Clock Tower Inn definitely met our expectations. The room was great—a very comfortable bed, large screen TV, and a welcomed air conditioner.
After freshening up, we headed back out into the summer heat to the Rock Pile Bar & Grill. The sports bar is high on 27th and provided a panoramic view of downtown Billings—the perfect place to relax and enjoy a couple of cold ones. The Grill had a great menu—I highly recommend the prime rib sandwich! We both enjoyed a fantastic meal while we discussed our itinerary for the long weekend! The staff was very friendly and helpful when a slight change in plans required new directions to get to our next destination.
Feeling full and contented after our meal, we cruised downhill to the Stillwater Stage on Montana Avenue to enjoy the Red Elvises – a Siberian Rock Band. The 4-member band was definitely entertaining. From the giant red bass guitar to the slinky redhead playing the keyboard, their music was eclectic and appealed to the equally eclectic audience. A variety of refreshments were available which may have encouraged some of the audience to move and groove to the beat of the music. Fun was certainly had by all who were in attendance.
Bright and early the next morning, we walked next door to Stella’s Kitchen & Bakery. It was time for a much needed cup of coffee and real home style cooking to get the body started for the next leg of our adventure. We enjoyed a great breakfast, made even better with toast from their homemade bread.
After packing our gear we started out for Red Lodge. The weather was perfect and the ride beautiful. Upon arriving in Red Lodge, we located the site of the Montana State Fiddle Contest. It was a wonderful way to spend the morning. There was a wide range of contestants from ages 7 to 89 with each contestant being judged after playing 3 separate songs. We were able to watch the last round for the Senior class and Round 2 for the Junior class. Not only were we entertained, but we were genuinely impressed by the talent of these contestants.
A quick lunch and it was on to Absarokee for a real thrill….whitewater rafting at Adventure Whitewater on the Stillwater River. To be honest, we were a little apprehensive when we heard we were going whitewater rafting. Our first experience, in a different state, provided more excitement than we had anticipated, including more than a few bumps and bruises, but this turned out to be a whole different experience and was the highlight of the trip. The river was named the Stillwater by the Lewis & Clark Expedition, but because of the heavy snowfall last winter, the river was running higher than normal and didn’t conform to its “still water” name. Owner, Marek Rosin, welcomed our group and pointed out the important gear needed on the river, then gave us a safety overview as well as a little “pep talk” to get everyone in the mood to hit the water. With the warm temperatures, everyone was more than eager to get in the water. We found out very shortly that this was not a “sit back and enjoy the view” kind of trip. It was team work. Each person was presented with a paddle that had a distinct purpose!
“Captain” Ron Ford, our capable guide with over 3000 hours of experience on the river, made the trip a real adventure. Along the route, he talked about historical and other interesting features, and pointed out a bald eagle in its nest and even gave us a chance to photograph it. He is also the guy who made every effort to maneuver our boat into just the right places in the river so that everyone got wet – or as he put it, “got their hair slicked back.” We encountered “double trouble” and the “dragon’s tail”, just a couple of spots on the river that added to the thrill. We even saw the Montana version of “surfing” along the river. A stop near the end of the trip provided an opportunity where only the bravest of souls could jump in the water from a 20 foot cliff. Surprisingly enough, there were more brave souls than expected. The trip included plenty of whitewater but was also very relaxing with incredible scenery. It ended far too quickly.
We changed into dry clothes, and headed back to Red Lodge to check in at the Pollard Hotel. The Pollard is a beautiful historic hotel that was restored to its original splendor with updated and modern amenities. It’s a real gem in the Red Lodge area. We had a quiet and comfortable room overlooking the main street of downtown. Red Lodge is a popular destination for motorcycle riders and we weren’t surprised to see a large number of riders in town enjoying the sights.
The trip down the river and back to Red Lodge had led us to a condition of severe hunger by the time we arrived in town. A meal at the Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen & Wine Bar, just a short walk from the Pollard, was definitely in order. The atmosphere in Bridge Creek is casual with a first rate menu and extensive wine list. After perusing the menu, we both selected a wonderful chicken and penne entree. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and left full and satisfied. We, did however, top off this experience with a quick visit to the local ice cream parlor- Scoops. No day is complete without your ice cream fix!
After a restful night, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the Pollard’s dining room and left for the final leg of our trip—up the amazing Beartooth Highway. Unfortunately, because of a fire that started the previous day, heavy smoke prevented us from venturing too far. Riding the Beartooth Highway is to experience a breathtaking winding road to the top of the world and a series of scenic vistas unparalleled outside of the Grand Canyon. Disappointed, but vowing to make the trip another day, we headed back to Billings.
We had a late lunch at Dos Machos, a very attractive Mexican style restaurant with a menu full of tantalizing south of the border selections. They also have a great Sunday brunch that we found hard to resist. A lot of eatin’ on this trip!
Finally it was time to head home – our weekend was complete and we had a wonderful time. We were given the opportunity to participate in events we might not have otherwise done. No matter how many times we’ve gone to Red Lodge, it is a wonderful community in a beautiful setting with much to offer and we always enjoy it. Billings provided a wonderful place to stay, some excellent food and some unique entertainment. The people of Montana are indeed warm and friendly with a desire to make your Montana experience memorable.
Date of Ride: July 25 – 27, 2008
Total mileage: 430
Type of Ride: Wally: Harley Davidson 08 Electra Glide
Peggy: Harley Davidson Road King Custom
Fuel consumption/cost: 8.6 Gallons/37.6 mpg
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