Buffalo Bill’s Cody Country Ride

Rider/Reviewers: Les Krenzer

This is a must ride for those of us who enjoy cruising down the open road to new destinations or places we haven’t been for a while. Mine was a two and a half day ride—leaving Billings, Montana, on Friday; riding to Cody, Wyoming, and returning to Billings on Sunday. It’s a short fun-filled weekend with a scenic ride and lots of activity in and around Cody.   

I left Billings Friday morning on my trusty black steed (an HD Street Glide). It was a might chilly, so it wasn’t long before I was curled up behind the windscreen and my feet were perched on top of the engine guards, probably not the safest arrangement but definitely warmer. The ride from Billings to Belfry took me through green irrigated fields and picturesque farms—no deer on the road, always a plus. Belfry is a quaint little town where the folks walking down the street gave me a wave or a polite nod, reflective of the neighborly values in small Montana communities. About 10 miles after leaving Belfry, I crossed into Wyoming where the road took me into a vast open valley surrounded by distant mountains. From there on it was a scenic ride down the Big Valley into Buffalo Bill’s town—Cody, Wyoming.

My first stop in Cody was a much-anticipated lunch at La Comida Restaurant. Located on Sheridan Avenue in the center of the business district, La Comida is known for its casual atmosphere and Southwest cuisine. I tried something new—Green Chile on an open face hamburger—a real treat for a meat/Mex lover and a choice I’d make again. The friendly waiter had a fine sense of western humor.

After lunch I wandered around the business district for a few hours taking photos and visiting with folks on the street—turns out that many were tourists who’d come from all over the world. I met people from Germany, England and even Florida (a foreign country to most Montanans) in a span of just a few hours. There are at least a dozen trading posts and cowboy stores for great local shopping—and, of course, I had to visit Beartooth Harley-Davidson. Even though they don’t sell bikes in Cody, they do have clothes and all the extras, and they do service work—a lifesaver if your iron horse is acting like a sick pony. Additionally, across the street next to the historic Irma Hotel there’s the Cody Custom Cycle Shop. They have a nice little repair shop and knowledgeable technicians on duty who work on most makes of motorcycles. They also carry clothes, parts and accessories. We aren’t all Harley drivers, I guess.

Later that afternoon I decided to check into my digs—the Cody Cowboy Village on the west end of town. To my delight it was a newly-built facility, just 2½ years old, arranged in a semi-circle with individual log cabins and a hot spring pool in the middle. There is absolutely nothing better than a relaxing hot soak and a cold beer after a long day in the saddle. The Cody Cowboy Village is situated on the prairie with Old Trail Town within a short walking distance. So, I just moseyed on over to have a look. Unlike most recreated Western towns, Old Trail Town is comprised of genuine old buildings and log cabins moved from where they were originally built. What makes this even more special is that several of the structures came from the Hole in the Wall hideaway, a favorite refuge for Butch Cassidy and his gang. It gave me a sense of what a rough and rowdy place Wyoming must have been at the turn of the century.

Before I knew it I was hopping on my black steed and racing to make the 3:00 p.m. Best of the West Trolley Tour. If you have the opportunity to do anything in Cody, take the Trolly! While it sounds mundane, it’s just the opposite. The on-board tour guides Patty & Greg are wholly knowledgeable about almost any detail concerning Cody, but what makes this trip worth it is their humor and interplay with the passengers. We toured the city proper, passed through several tunnels, then went toward the East entrance to Yellowstone Park as far as the dam on the Wind River or Buffalo Bill Reservoir. I recommend taking the trolley tour first when you arrive in Cody, then you’ll have a better feel for where you want to ride your bike. I had a great time. The tour took about an hour and ten minutes, then let us off at the  Irma Hotel where one of the best restaurants in Cody was right there waiting for me.

I bellied up to the bar in the main dining room of the Irma Hotel, built by Buffalo Bill and named in honor of his daughter Irma. According to legend, the ornate bar was a gift from Queen Victoria of England who presented it to Buffalo Bill in thanks for private performances of his Wild West Show while he toured England and the European continent. The Irma’s back bar is equally fascinating, made of intricately carved cherry wood, so that legend combines with art to create an ambience that is unparalleled in the old West.  Then there is the food – dinner at the Irma was excellent and reminiscent of Western home cooking.  Nancy, our server, was hospitable and entertaining as she combined light quips with her knowledge of the local goings-on.  After a fine dinner and a busy day, it was time to kick back and enjoy the rest of my evening soaking in the hot spring at Cody Cowboy Village and snoozing the night away.

I woke up Saturday morning to a cool, cloudy, windy and damp morning. After a light breakfast at the Cowboy Village I headed out for the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. Talk about a destination for a bike trip! The Buffalo Bill Historical Center is a destination in itself. I was awe struck by the number of displays in the museum, both static and interactive. There are actually five different museums in the Center ranging from Firearms, Native American Museum, and to Buffalo Bill’s Museum itself. I enjoyed chilling in the magnificent gardens. At the end of a long day listening to road noises and the pipes of your “hog,” this is the prefect place to lay back and relax with a little peace and solitude. The Western Art area of the museum was difficult to leave—there was a silent auction taking place, and the bidding began at 30k for a piece I was eyeing—just a little out of this biker’s weekend budget. I spent the better portion of the day ogling display after display. By mid-afternoon, my stomach was growling again, and it was off to the Silver Dollar Saloon for an afternoon burger.

The Silver Dollar is a western bar with a rock and roll spin, where the ceiling is covered by dollar bills signed from folks all over the world.  Patrons can drink and dine either inside or outside in the courtyard. I elected to dine outside where the environment is somewhat smoke-free. My burger was massive, but so good I had no intention of leaving any on my plate—struggled for quite a while to get comfortable again. 

I left the Silver Dollar with the noble intension of taking an afternoon ride to the East entrance of Yellowstone Park and back to Cody. The cold damp weather dictated otherwise. Honestly, I just plain wimped out after about fifteen minutes of curling up behind the windscreen. I’ll save that little junket for another day’s enjoyment. However, on the return to Cody I happened to stop in at Tecumseh’s Miniature Village & Museum. What a fun place!  The museum is packed (and I mean packed) with artifacts from the old West—everything from Native American memorabilia to all manner of cowboy stuff. Dominating the center part of the museum is a miniature old West recreation with an operational railroad. Any visitor can just push a button and the train does its thing through hill and dale. So, I felt compelled to be a railroad engineer for a brief period. Maybe it’s one of those deep-down things we all want to do some day. Here’s one for you, the entire museum is free! That’s almost unheard of in this day and time; however, contributions are appreciated.

By now I’m thinking what better way to top off the day than a fine dinner and some local entertainment. Once again I’m off to refuel. This dining experience took place at the Rib & Chop House. The restaurant is centrally located on Sheridan Ave. just down the block from the Cody Theater, my next destination. Timing is everything. I was seated in the middle of the restaurant after a very short wait (reservations are a must). The server, Beth, was very polite and attentive. My dinner of ribs and mushrooms arrived in short order, was well-prepared and hit the spot. Had I not had entertainment plans, this meal was nudging me back to a warm bed and blissful sleep. However, duty called. Off to the theater I went.

I arrived at the Cody Theater to an almost full house waiting to see Dan Miller’s “Cowboy Music Review.” Not being a big country music fan I was pleasantly surprised. The stage show ensemble consisted of four local musicians; all who were quite talented. What makes this show different than just your average band doing well-known tunes is the way Dan Miller feeds off the audience. His humor and the methods he employs to encourage theater participation make the show unique. They played country tunes from as far back as the mid-1800s, with his finale being that old standby Happy Trails to You by Dale Evans. What wonderful entertainment!  On my sure to be return trip I’ll bring my wife who was unable to attend this adventure. It’s a venue she’ll be sure to enjoy. At the end of a full day it was time to turn in. When I got back to the cabin, I tried to find the fox that had been hanging around earlier in the afternoon, but he must have found more lucrative pickings elsewhere.

Sunday morning I rose to find the clouds had left the area and the sun was out, just inviting me to head on down the road back to the homestead. So, after a quick breakfast and goodbyes to the fine folks I had met at the Cowboy Village, I hit the road again. I followed the same route back; however, I did contemplate turning at Belfry and taking the cutoff to Red Lodge. It’s only about a 15-mile detour—maybe next trip. Forty-five minutes later I pulled into the driveway, unloaded and headed for a hot cup of my own home roasted coffee.

This was a fun trip and a beautiful ride. Its short enough not to become exhausting, and the time spent in Cody is just about right for a get-acquainted stay. A return trip is definitely in my plans—there are many things I simply did not have time to do.  I’d highly recommend this trip to any biker (or other type rider) looking for a great 3-day trip!

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